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Rajasthan. "Land of kings" in Sanskrit. Above all, a land of the sacred. Dive into the biggest religious festival of the Bhil tribes.
They are blacksmiths, shepherds and farmers. In the distant past, they were an influential group in Rajputana (formerly known as Rajasthan), Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat, and fought alongside the sovereigns of Mewar against the Mughal armies. History has made them formidable warriors and unrivalled hunters. They are the Bhil, India's third largest tribal community and the country's best archers, it is said.
Baneshwar: pilgrimage and funeral rites
Every year, on the full moon at the end of January or February (Magh Shukla Purnima), they gather in their thousands on the delta of the Som and Mahi rivers to celebrate Baneshwar "the master of the Delta", the local nickname for the god Shiva Linga whom they worship. With fervour, they pay homage to their ancestors, scatter the ashes of the year's dead and purify themselves in the sacred waters. For three days and three nights, they pray, dance and sing around bonfires lit in the surrounding desert. For most of the faithful, this pilgrimage required real organisation between families and neighbours.
Piled inside and on top of the rare cars owned by the richest people, clinging to the doors, they sometimes travel hundreds of kilometres on chaotic roads. The others come on mopeds (it's not unusual to see up to 5 people on one), camels or on carts pulled by buffaloes with painted horns. But most of the time, pilgrims make the journey on foot. On arrival, they spread out in a gigantic improvised camp of stretched tarpaulins, jute canvas and colourful awnings.
Vendors selling souvenirs, holy pictures, knick-knacks, various utensils and amusement parks complete the décor and help to create the atmosphere of a lively and joyful fair.
Visit to Shiva temple and initiation rites
The festivities begin with a visit to the Shiva temple, the third deity of the Hindu triad. Just before entering the sanctuary, a priest, half-sadhu, half-cerberus, beckons us with the end of his staff to leave our shoes. Definitely! When we come back out, they will have vanished. Thieves also frequent temples. Never mind, we leave with a third eye on our forehead and tell ourselves that our trainers have made someone happy.
At the temple, the ritual consists of adorning the Shiva Lingam – a stone statue shaped like an erect phallus, set on a circular base and placed on the yoni, a feminine symbol – with saffron, a symbol of fire and purity. This is accompanied by Shiva's mount, the bull Nandi. Worshippers bathe it, scent it with incense, or adorn it with petals. A few signs drawn in the air, fragile markers of a realm of wind and light, a bell rung in passing, devotion reaches its peak. An impassive yogi, aged by shilom, clings to his dreams; time has no hold...
Ancestor worship
The tribespeople then head in a group towards the river to immerse the remains of their dead from the year. The ashes are wrapped in white cotton cloth if it's a man, red if it's a woman. The riverbanks teem with people, but their faces express no sadness, only contemplation. We force our way as best we can through a colourful crowd, surprised to see a few Westerners lost in these parts. The women bathe and wash together, alone or next to the men of the family. The water clings to their saris, highlighting the grace and beauty of the multicoloured figures reflected in the waves. A few ablutions, one or two sips of water, a few chanted prayers, and that's almost all there is to it. Water here is a deity. Each person offers their being to it. Even their car!
Holy water and the belief in immortality
Water is not only good for the soul, it can very often heal the body. This is why mothers do not hesitate for a moment to give it to their babies to drink, right before our disbelieving eyes. Never mind that the river carries rubbish and debris, that everyone does their washing and their ablutions in it! One must plunge in, splash oneself and drink this «nectar of immortality». And immortality in India is not up for debate. Hindus know well that, sooner or later, in this life or another, they will achieve osmosis between their soul and the divine. Ceaselessly renewed births and deaths are our lot, all of us. And in this game, every being has eternity before them to win! Just imagine for a moment that you are living so that your next life may be better... that puts many things into perspective!
Baneshwar: A pilgrimage between sacred fervor and lively fair
Once the bath is over, everyone scatters around the stalls to do their shopping or meet up with distant relatives in an atmosphere of joyful fervour. Baneshwar is at once a sacred place, a meeting place and a gigantic market. In this unusual bric-a-brac, there's something for everyone: tools for working the land, kitchen utensils, kitschy knick-knacks or icons from the Hindu pantheon... Dressed in their brightly coloured saris and jewellery, the women go in groups to visit the stalls. The men sell, buy or barter. They wear simple white clothes, a symbol of simplicity and modesty. As for the young girls, their faces full of make-up and eyes highlighted with kohl, you'd think they were straight out of one of those Bollywood films that Indians are particularly fond of.
We eat standing up, sitting down or squatting on the floor, from a bowl or newspaper. You drink milk tea flavoured with cardamom, surrounded by the smell of incense, sandalwood and spices. You stroll past a stall selling sugar cane juice or a tattooist whose hygiene is not guaranteed.
In the evening, the vigil begins at the temple with offerings to Shiva: rice, peanuts, milk, candles… And continues outdoors. The women cook the meal on braziers fuelled by dried cow dung. While storytellers and singers entertain the crowd, accompanied by players of the satara, a flute with an enchanting sound. One has the impression of being in another world that transcends us, a world where the spirit wanders in peace with itself.« The East for orientation » , said Henri Michaux...
Getting there
The tribal festival of Baneshwar is still rarely visited by Western tourists. Baneshwar is located 70 km from Dungarpur, the "City of Hills", in the Arawallis mountains, not far from the border with Gujarat. Accommodation is at the Udai Bilas Palace in Dungarpur, a magnificent lakeside location whose owner, the current Maharajah, has preserved the quaint but grandiose atmosphere of the India of his ancestors.
Lands of adventure offers a fortnight's tour of Rajasthan, giving you the chance to discover the Taj Mahal, the romantic city of Udaipur, Jodhpur and its fortress, as well as traditional life in the countryside and the Thar Desert.
http://www.terdav.com/ps-inde/rn-inde-nord/tp-circuit-accompagne/at-decouverte/ind030–rajasthan-terre-fastes-couleurs
Lands of adventure
Tel: 01 70 82 90 00
www.terdav.com
World travellers offers a number of tours of North India based around the legendary cities of Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Udaipur.
http://www.voyageursdumonde.fr/voyage-sur-mesure/recherche-voyage/voyage-inde-du-nord/inde
Tel: 01 84 17 21 64
http://www.voyageursdumonde.fr/
Rajasthan's economy is mainly based on agriculture. Barley and wheat are grown over large areas, as are sugarcane and oilseeds. Cotton and tobacco are harvested here, and it is also the leading state in terms of wool production.