{"id":1190,"date":"2018-08-07T18:14:52","date_gmt":"2018-08-07T17:14:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/?p=1190"},"modified":"2024-12-11T11:39:06","modified_gmt":"2024-12-11T10:39:06","slug":"burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/","title":{"rendered":"Burma - From Bhamo to Mandalay along the Irrawaddy River"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>This is one of Burma's most interesting and least popular river cruises. From golden pagodas to monasteries, from forests to rice fields, from the fantastic to the unreal, the Irrawaddy reveals its world of beliefs and superstitions. Welcome to the land of gods and genies.<\/strong><\/p><div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_80 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-white ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of Contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/#Une_artere_commerciale\" >A commercial artery<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/#Premieres_escales\" >First ports of call<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/#Un_quotidien_rythme_par_la_religion\" >A daily life punctuated by religion<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/#Sur_les_pas_dOrwell\" >In the footsteps of Orwell<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/#Des_villages_figes_dans_le_temps\" >Villages frozen in time<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/#Birmanie_intemporelle\" >Timeless Burma<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-7\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/#Escale_au_village_de_poteries_de_Nwe_Nyein\" >Stopover in the pottery village of Nwe Nyein<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-8\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/#Mahagandayon_1500_moines_et_novices\" >Mahagandayon: 1,500 monks and novices<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n<p>Our journey begins in Bhamo, a small town in northern Burma, in the state of Kachin. It is also the last port before the Chinese border, some 90 km away. We get a feel for the town by taking a tour of the market, where a large number of Chinese traders set up shop. They dominate the trade in everyday goods and, above all, the less visible, informal trade in contraband. Jade, precious stones and wood: \"every year, billions of dollars escape the Burmese economy\", says our guide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The population, a mixture of Shan and Kachin ethnic groups, makes the best of it, and even gets a few subsidies. In Myanmar, per capita income remains one of the lowest in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Before boarding our ship, the Amara II, which is waiting for us at the quayside, we make a few purchases: a longyi, a kind of long cylindrical skirt worn by both sexes - practical as it is forbidden for both sexes to show their knees in pagodas - and flip-flops as we are constantly taking our shoes off, whether on the boat or in the temples.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-2_DSC_0429-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-0\" data-rl_title=\"Vendeuse ambulante au march\u00e9 de Bhamo.\" data-rl_caption=\"Vendeuse ambulante au march\u00e9 de Bhamo.\" title=\"Street vendor at Bhamo market.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1173\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-2_DSC_0429-Copier-1024x569.jpg\" alt=\"Street vendor at Bhamo market.\" width=\"810\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-2_DSC_0429-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-2_DSC_0429-Copier-300x167.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-2_DSC_0429-Copier-768x427.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-2_DSC_0429-Copier-600x333.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a><em>Street vendor at Bhamo market.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The welcome on board is extremely attentive, and with good reason: we will be the last and only passengers on this last cruise of the dry season, with a crew of 11.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-3_DSC_0055-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-1\" data-rl_title=\"On nous octroie la cabine centrale, \u00ab r\u00e9cemment occup\u00e9e par le roi de Norv\u00e8ge \u00bb, r\u00e9v\u00e8le le manager de bord. Elle est un peu plus spacieuse que les 4 autres, mais toutes sont tr\u00e8s fonctionnelles et habill\u00e9es de teck.\" data-rl_caption=\"On nous octroie la cabine centrale, \u00ab r\u00e9cemment occup\u00e9e par le roi de Norv\u00e8ge \u00bb, r\u00e9v\u00e8le le manager de bord. Elle est un peu plus spacieuse que les 4 autres, mais toutes sont tr\u00e8s fonctionnelles et habill\u00e9es de teck.\" title=\"We are given the central cabin, &quot;recently occupied by the King of Norway&quot;, reveals the onboard manager. It&#039;s a little more spacious than the other 4, but all are very functional and dressed in teak.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-3_DSC_0055-Copier-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"We are given the central cabin, &quot;recently occupied by the King of Norway&quot;, reveals the onboard manager. It&#039;s a little more spacious than the other 4, but all are very functional and dressed in teak. \" class=\"wp-image-1174\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-3_DSC_0055-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-3_DSC_0055-Copier-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-3_DSC_0055-Copier-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-3_DSC_0055-Copier-600x338.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>We are given the central cabin, \"recently occupied by the King of Norway\", reveals the onboard manager. It's a little more spacious than the other 4, but all are very functional and dressed in teak.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Une_artere_commerciale\"><\/span>A commercial artery<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>It will take us 8 days to reach Mandalay, Burma's second largest city. Going upriver in the opposite direction takes twice as long. In the dry season, night navigation is impossible. So our nights will be peaceful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The boat leaves the shore, which is not very busy on this mild afternoon, and heads gently at 5-6 knots to our first wild anchorage. It's early March and the river is dotted with numerous sandbanks. Depending on the season, the river is more or less dotted with islets and divided into numerous arms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-4_nav-Amara-sondage_0010-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-2\" data-rl_title=\"Deux marins sondent en permanence avec une longue tige de bambou tandis qu\u2019un autre guette les objets flottants (troncs, arbres) et informe par geste la passerelle de la profondeur : 3 doigts lev\u00e9s correspondent \u00e0 une hauteur d\u2019eau de 3 coud\u00e9es, 3 doigts et le pouce en \u00e9querre signifient 3 coud\u00e9es et demie, main enti\u00e8re lev\u00e9e : 5 coud\u00e9es, etc.\" data-rl_caption=\"Deux marins sondent en permanence avec une longue tige de bambou tandis qu\u2019un autre guette les objets flottants (troncs, arbres) et informe par geste la passerelle de la profondeur : 3 doigts lev\u00e9s correspondent \u00e0 une hauteur d\u2019eau de 3 coud\u00e9es, 3 doigts et le pouce en \u00e9querre signifient 3 coud\u00e9es et demie, main enti\u00e8re lev\u00e9e : 5 coud\u00e9es, etc.\" title=\"Two sailors are constantly sounding the water with a long bamboo rod, while another looks out for floating objects (trunks, trees) and informs the bridge of the depth by gesture: 3 fingers raised correspond to a water depth of 3 cubits, 3 fingers and thumb at right angles mean 3 and a half cubits, a whole hand raised: 5 cubits, and so on.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"432\" height=\"768\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-4_nav-Amara-sondage_0010-Copier.jpg\" alt=\"Two sailors are constantly sounding the water with a long bamboo rod, while another looks out for floating objects (trunks, trees) and informs the bridge of the depth by gesture: 3 fingers raised correspond to a water depth of 3 cubits, 3 fingers and thumb at right angles mean 3 and a half cubits, a whole hand raised: 5 cubits, and so on. \" class=\"wp-image-1175\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-4_nav-Amara-sondage_0010-Copier.jpg 432w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-4_nav-Amara-sondage_0010-Copier-169x300.jpg 169w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-4_nav-Amara-sondage_0010-Copier-338x600.jpg 338w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 432px) 100vw, 432px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Two sailors are constantly sounding the water with a long bamboo rod, while another looks out for floating objects (trunks, trees) and informs the bridge of the depth by gesture: 3 fingers raised correspond to a water depth of 3 cubits, 3 fingers and thumb at right angles mean 3 and a half cubits, a whole hand raised: 5 cubits, and so on.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The captain, Nyunt Lwyn (58), has been sailing the Irrawaddy (Ayeryarwaddy in Burmese) for some forty years and knows its every twist and turn. But he remains on his guard. It takes years to get to know the river, but you're often surprised,\" he says. The river is alive, it changes with the seasons and this year a village of straw huts had to move 500m because the banks had crumbled.\" In places, the sand cliffs can be 5 or 6 metres high.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-5_IMG_5918-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-3\" data-rl_title=\"Certains bancs sont permanents et les villageois ont install\u00e9 des campements durables en plein milieu du lit de la rivi\u00e8re.\" data-rl_caption=\"Certains bancs sont permanents et les villageois ont install\u00e9 des campements durables en plein milieu du lit de la rivi\u00e8re.\" title=\"Some benches are permanent and the villagers have set up permanent camps right in the middle of the riverbed.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-5_IMG_5918-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Some benches are permanent and the villagers have set up permanent camps right in the middle of the riverbed. \" class=\"wp-image-1176\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-5_IMG_5918-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-5_IMG_5918-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-5_IMG_5918-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-5_IMG_5918-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><em>Some benches are permanent and the villagers have set up permanent camps right in the middle of the riverbed. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This brown river with its silver sheen looks peaceful at low water, but after the monsoon rains, the sandy banks are undermined and recede further each year. The river then goes from being 1 or 2km wide in some places to some 4km.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Like the Ganges for the Indians, the Irrawaddy is sacred. Sailors offer it flowers, lanterns and prayers. Thousands of whitewashed stupas and gold-covered pagodas line its banks, housing relics of saints and statues of Buddha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-6-bis_IMG_5909-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-4\" data-rl_title=\"C\u2019est aussi un mus\u00e9e vivant de tout ce qui peut flotter : barges bond\u00e9es, radeaux de bambous ou de teck, navires crachant une fum\u00e9e noire, ferries dans un \u00e9tat improbable, barques de p\u00eacheurs, vedettes de transport passagers, etc.\" data-rl_caption=\"C\u2019est aussi un mus\u00e9e vivant de tout ce qui peut flotter : barges bond\u00e9es, radeaux de bambous ou de teck, navires crachant une fum\u00e9e noire, ferries dans un \u00e9tat improbable, barques de p\u00eacheurs, vedettes de transport passagers, etc.\" title=\"It&#039;s also a living museum of everything that can float: crowded barges, bamboo or teak rafts, ships belching black smoke, ferries in an improbable state, fishermen&#039;s boats, passenger transport launches, etc.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1177\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-6-bis_IMG_5909-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"It&#039;s also a living museum of everything that can float: crowded barges, bamboo or teak rafts, ships belching black smoke, ferries in an improbable state, fishermen&#039;s boats, passenger transport launches, etc. \" width=\"810\" height=\"540\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-6-bis_IMG_5909-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-6-bis_IMG_5909-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-6-bis_IMG_5909-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-6-bis_IMG_5909-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a><em>It's also a living museum of everything that can float: crowded barges, bamboo or teak rafts, ships belching black smoke, ferries in an improbable state, fishermen's boats, passenger transport launches, etc. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Premieres_escales\"><\/span>First ports of call<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The next morning, we set off again for Shwegu. In the light rain, we pass through the 2nd defile, a channel around 100m long, wedged between sheer cliffs over 200m high. Spectacular! Four channels punctuate the Irrawaddy as far as the Andaman Sea. The first of these is not navigable, so we go around it. We cross the other three.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>From a landscape of sandy plains we migrate to an environment of steep forests, then banks dotted with groves and tiny villages on stilts. The Burmese forest, which covers almost half the country, is shrinking every year. The illegal trade in precious woods (particularly rosewood and ironwood, which cannot be cultivated like teak) and deforestation for agricultural purposes are the main causes. Added to this is the poverty of the villagers, who are forced to cut wood for cooking or to sell it illegally to neighbouring countries (notably China). The riverbanks are dotted with piles of bamboo stalks and teak logs awaiting transport.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-7_IMG_1967-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-5\" data-rl_title=\"Les bambous sont assembl\u00e9s en radeaux g\u00e9ants avant d\u2019\u00eatre convoy\u00e9s par le fleuve.\" data-rl_caption=\"Les bambous sont assembl\u00e9s en radeaux g\u00e9ants avant d\u2019\u00eatre convoy\u00e9s par le fleuve.\" title=\"The bamboo is assembled into giant rafts before being transported down the river.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-7_IMG_1967-Copier-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"The bamboo is assembled into giant rafts before being transported down the river. \" class=\"wp-image-1194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-7_IMG_1967-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-7_IMG_1967-Copier-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-7_IMG_1967-Copier-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-7_IMG_1967-Copier-600x450.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>The bamboo is assembled into giant rafts before being transported down the river. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We stop off at the village of Sin Kan (population 6,000), where the streets are made of mud. The women wash their children and clothes on the riverbank.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-8_DSC_0081-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-6\" data-rl_title=\"Au march\u00e9, on nous propose des feuilles de b\u00e9tel et des noix d\u2019arec \u00e0 chiquer.\" data-rl_caption=\"Au march\u00e9, on nous propose des feuilles de b\u00e9tel et des noix d\u2019arec \u00e0 chiquer.\" title=\"At the market, we are offered betel leaves and areca nuts to chew.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"512\" height=\"768\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-8_DSC_0081-Copier.jpg\" alt=\"At the market, we are offered betel leaves and areca nuts to chew. \" class=\"wp-image-1195\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-8_DSC_0081-Copier.jpg 512w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-8_DSC_0081-Copier-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-8_DSC_0081-Copier-400x600.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>At the market, we are offered betel leaves and areca nuts to chew.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Here, half the men and a quarter of the women chew tobacco. You can tell by their reddened teeth and lips. But few know that the plant is carcinogenic and addictive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A few kilometres downstream, we spot a group of gold panners on the bank. A powerful pump is sucking up the bottom of the river. The only problem is that they use mercury with their bare hands to amalgamate the gold, and the wash water is discharged into the river, which is highly toxic to the food chain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/or_2107-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-7\" data-rl_title=\"Une famille manie au fond d\u2019un trou d\u2019eau les bat\u00e9es \u00e0 la recherche de p\u00e9pites qui feront leur richesse.\" data-rl_caption=\"Une famille manie au fond d\u2019un trou d\u2019eau les bat\u00e9es \u00e0 la recherche de p\u00e9pites qui feront leur richesse.\" title=\"At the bottom of a water hole, a family wields paddles in search of the nuggets that will make them rich.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1199\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/or_2107-Copier-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"At the bottom of a water hole, a family wields paddles in search of the nuggets that will make them rich. \" width=\"810\" height=\"608\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/or_2107-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/or_2107-Copier-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/or_2107-Copier-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/or_2107-Copier-600x450.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a><em>At the bottom of a water hole, a family wields paddles in search of the gold nuggets that will make them rich.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The afternoon is devoted to a visit to the Shwegu pagoda, where a popular festival attracts thousands of pilgrims. The stupas of the old pagoda are in ruins. Built of bricks and sand, they have not withstood the elements and the vegetation that has grown over them. But a new one has been built next door.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Un_quotidien_rythme_par_la_religion\"><\/span>A daily life punctuated by religion<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-10_6385-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-8\" data-rl_title=\"Pri\u00e8re en famille \u00e0 la pagode Schwedagon \u00e0 Rangoon\" data-rl_caption=\"Pri\u00e8re en famille \u00e0 la pagode Schwedagon \u00e0 Rangoon\" title=\"Family prayer at the Schwedagon pagoda in Rangoon\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1196\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-10_6385-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Family prayer at the Schwedagon pagoda in Rangoon\" width=\"810\" height=\"540\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-10_6385-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-10_6385-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-10_6385-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-10_6385-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a>Family prayer at the Schwedagon pagoda in Rangoon<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pilgrimages are legion and often provide an opportunity for a little rest for a people who never go on holiday.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Families pray, eat and sleep in front of the altars on the floor, with their heads turned towards the Buddha figures. Devotees prostrate themselves before the statues, while monks and nuns meditate and collect offerings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The third day of sailing got off to a cool start, under a light mist. The river left its north-south orientation and began to curve in an east-north-west direction. Then it gradually widens. The sandy cliffs, topped by a few huts with wild grass or corrugated iron roofs, taper off to make way for food crops. Halfway to Katha, the river flows north-south again and the sun breaks through the clouds. We were lucky enough to see three Irrawaddy dolphins frolicking around the Amara II.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-11_6173-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-9\" data-rl_title=\"La navigation est lente en raison de nombreux bancs de sables et javeaux qui obligent les marins \u00e0 sonder.\" data-rl_caption=\"La navigation est lente en raison de nombreux bancs de sables et javeaux qui obligent les marins \u00e0 sonder.\" title=\"Navigation is slow due to the numerous sandbanks and shoals that force sailors to sound.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-11_6173-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Navigation is slow due to the numerous sandbanks and shoals that force sailors to sound.\" class=\"wp-image-1178\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-11_6173-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-11_6173-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-11_6173-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-11_6173-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Navigation is slow due to the numerous sandbanks and shoals that force sailors to sound.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Burma - sailing\" width=\"1140\" height=\"641\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/EnAWVumJBZU?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Sur_les_pas_dOrwell\"><\/span>In the footsteps of Orwell<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Katha is proud to have been home to the writer George Orwell, who lived in this peaceful village between 1926 and 1927 while serving in the Imperial Police. He even used it as the backdrop for his first novel, Burmese Days. We visit some of the places where he lived. Here we see his teak house, the first floor of which is currently occupied by the family of a police officer. The building is in a sorry state and the garden is just as bad. In another part of the town, we discover the British Club, where the colonial society of the time met, and where the natives were forbidden to enter unless they were serving. It has been out of use for ages, and you have to find the key before entering a dusty room with faded teak walls. It's hard to imagine that this place was once a daily meeting place for Westerners who came here to drown their boredom in alcohol.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There's nothing like a trip to the market to get a feel for the place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Burma - the market\" width=\"1140\" height=\"641\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/sv9QWapULog?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>As evening falls, our captain decides to move away from the city and moor up on an island where a delicious candlelit barbecue awaits us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Des_villages_figes_dans_le_temps\"><\/span>Villages frozen in time<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The next day, we continue on to Tagaung, one of Burma's oldest capitals. But first, we stop off in a tiny village with an ancestral way of life, where we are a curiosity for the locals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-12_6003-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-10\" data-rl_title=\"Araire pouss\u00e9e par un homme pieds nus, b\u0153ufs que l\u2019on attelle, meules de paille sur pilotis, maisons faites de bois et de nattes de bambou, le progr\u00e8s n\u2019a pas fr\u00f4l\u00e9 ces contr\u00e9es accessibles uniquement en bateau.\" data-rl_caption=\"Araire pouss\u00e9e par un homme pieds nus, b\u0153ufs que l\u2019on attelle, meules de paille sur pilotis, maisons faites de bois et de nattes de bambou, le progr\u00e8s n\u2019a pas fr\u00f4l\u00e9 ces contr\u00e9es accessibles uniquement en bateau.\" title=\"Barefoot, oxen being harnessed, straw mills on stilts, houses made of wood and bamboo mats - progress has never touched these lands, which are only accessible by boat.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1179\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-12_6003-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Barefoot, oxen being harnessed, straw mills on stilts, houses made of wood and bamboo mats - progress has never touched these lands, which are only accessible by boat. \" width=\"810\" height=\"540\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-12_6003-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-12_6003-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-12_6003-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-12_6003-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a><em>Barefoot, oxen being harnessed, straw mills on stilts, houses made of wood and bamboo mats - progress has never touched these lands, which are only accessible by boat.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-13_0088-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-11\" data-rl_title=\"Birmanie\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"Burma\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-13_0088-Copier-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1180\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-13_0088-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-13_0088-Copier-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-13_0088-Copier-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-13_0088-Copier-600x338.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Every time you dock, you'll appreciate the captain's skill at manoeuvring his ship. Because of the wide variations in water levels, there are virtually no fixed pontoons along the river.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-14_0024-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-12\" data-rl_title=\"Pour d\u00e9barquer, on emprunte des passerelles de bois pos\u00e9es entre la rive et le plat-bord.\" data-rl_caption=\"Pour d\u00e9barquer, on emprunte des passerelles de bois pos\u00e9es entre la rive et le plat-bord.\" title=\"To disembark, wooden gangways are laid between the shore and the gunwale.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1181\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-14_0024-Copier-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"To disembark, wooden gangways are laid between the shore and the gunwale.\" width=\"810\" height=\"456\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-14_0024-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-14_0024-Copier-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-14_0024-Copier-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-14_0024-Copier-600x338.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a><em>To disembark, wooden gangways are laid between the shore and the gunwale.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-15_5913-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-13\" data-rl_title=\"Avant Tagaung, le fleuve s\u2019\u00e9largit pour \u00e0 nouveau l\u00e9cher les bancs de sable bordant les rizi\u00e8res.\" data-rl_caption=\"Avant Tagaung, le fleuve s\u2019\u00e9largit pour \u00e0 nouveau l\u00e9cher les bancs de sable bordant les rizi\u00e8res.\" title=\"Before Tagaung, the river widens and once again laps the sandbanks bordering the rice fields.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1182\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-15_5913-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Before Tagaung, the river widens and once again laps the sandbanks bordering the rice fields. \" width=\"810\" height=\"540\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-15_5913-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-15_5913-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-15_5913-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-15_5913-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a>Before Tagaung, the river widens and once again laps the sandbanks bordering the rice fields.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Time passes peacefully, to the slow rhythm of navigation punctuated by the gongs and chants emanating from the many monasteries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As the sun reddens the horizon and lights up the sandy shores, the captain guides the boat to a large sandbank that will serve as an anchorage for the night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Birmanie_intemporelle\"><\/span>Timeless Burma<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Early the next morning, the Amara heads back towards Thabeikkyin, where the river crosses its third gorge, carved out of sandstone. The vegetation changes. There are burnt areas on some of the hills, blackish crusts drowned out by a sparse landscape of dry trees. About forty years ago, these hills were covered in natural teak,\" comments our guide. The farmers have cut down everything and planted nothing. Some of them still make charcoal with the rest of the trees. It's the only way they can survive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Escale_au_village_de_poteries_de_Nwe_Nyein\"><\/span>Stopover in the pottery village of Nwe Nyein<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The Tagaung region has been renowned since the mid-18th century for its magnificent glazed pottery. The craftsmen take us on a tour of their workshops and their brick and clay kilns, where the week's firing takes place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-16_0034-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-14\" data-rl_title=\"Les jarres que l\u2019on nomme ici Ali Baba pots seront convoy\u00e9es par radeaux et bateaux vers Mandalay ou Bagan. Elles servent de r\u00e9serve d\u2019eau et d\u2019huile dans les maisons.\" data-rl_caption=\"Les jarres que l\u2019on nomme ici Ali Baba pots seront convoy\u00e9es par radeaux et bateaux vers Mandalay ou Bagan. Elles servent de r\u00e9serve d\u2019eau et d\u2019huile dans les maisons.\" title=\"The jars, known here as Ali Baba pots, were transported by raft or boat to Mandalay or Bagan. They were used to store water and oil in houses.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-16_0034-Copier-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"The jars, known here as Ali Baba pots, were transported by raft or boat to Mandalay or Bagan. They were used to store water and oil in houses.\" class=\"wp-image-1183\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-16_0034-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-16_0034-Copier-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-16_0034-Copier-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-16_0034-Copier-600x338.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><em>The jars, known here as Ali Baba pots, were transported by raft or boat to Mandalay or Bagan. They were used to store water and oil in houses.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For the night, we stay near the ancient capital of Kyaukmyaung. It's a great opportunity to see the bustle of this town, with its myriad street vendors jumping from one passenger boat to another, children diving into the brown water and monks strolling along the river.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-17_2218-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-15\" data-rl_title=\"Nous rencontrons une jeune nonne, toute de rose v\u00eatue.\" data-rl_caption=\"Nous rencontrons une jeune nonne, toute de rose v\u00eatue.\" title=\"We meet a young nun, dressed all in pink.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"576\" height=\"768\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-17_2218-Copier.jpg\" alt=\"We meet a young nun, dressed all in pink. \" class=\"wp-image-1184\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-17_2218-Copier.jpg 576w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-17_2218-Copier-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-17_2218-Copier-450x600.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>We meet a young nun, dressed all in pink. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The next day, the boat leaves at 6am for Mingun. The course of the Irrawaddy widens to one kilometre. The western bank is lined with terraces, some of which are occupied by gold miners. We cross an area of very dense teak forest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-19_6296-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-16\" data-rl_title=\"Depuis le pont sup\u00e9rieur, nous admirons quelques p\u00eacheurs p\u00eachant \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9pervier d\u2019un geste s\u00fbr et \u00e9l\u00e9gant.\" data-rl_caption=\"Depuis le pont sup\u00e9rieur, nous admirons quelques p\u00eacheurs p\u00eachant \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9pervier d\u2019un geste s\u00fbr et \u00e9l\u00e9gant.\" title=\"From the upper deck, we admire a few fishermen hawk fishing with a sure and elegant touch.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1186\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-19_6296-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"From the upper deck, we admire a few fishermen hawk fishing with a sure and elegant touch. \" width=\"810\" height=\"540\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-19_6296-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-19_6296-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-19_6296-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-19_6296-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a><em>From the upper deck, we admire a few fishermen hawk fishing with a sure and elegant touch. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Disembarking in Mingun, a flock of temple merchants awaits us. The ancient city of King Bodawpaya is very popular with tourists, as it is about 45 minutes by boat from Mandalay. It contains a red brick pagoda whose construction was abandoned when the king died in the early 19th century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-20_6325-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-17\" data-rl_title=\"Fendue par un tremblement de terre en 1838, la pagode de Mingun n\u2019en demeure pas moins impressionnante.\" data-rl_caption=\"Fendue par un tremblement de terre en 1838, la pagode de Mingun n\u2019en demeure pas moins impressionnante.\" title=\"Split by an earthquake in 1838, the Mingun pagoda is nonetheless impressive.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1187\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-20_6325-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Split by an earthquake in 1838, the Mingun pagoda is nonetheless impressive. \" width=\"810\" height=\"540\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-20_6325-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-20_6325-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-20_6325-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-20_6325-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 810px) 100vw, 810px\" \/><\/a><em>Split by an earthquake in 1838, the Mingun pagoda is nonetheless impressive.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The two 29-metre-high lion statues that once stood on the front of the pagoda were finished off in the 2012 earthquake. Since then, it has been forbidden to climb to the top of the pagoda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/pagode-de-Mingun_21_compressed-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-18\" data-rl_title=\"On encha\u00eene avec la pagode d\u2019alb\u00e2tre Hsinbyume, appel\u00e9e aussi le stupa Mya Thein Tan, une imposante meringue blanche construite en 1816 par le roi Bagyidaw pour sa femme morte en couche.\" data-rl_caption=\"On encha\u00eene avec la pagode d\u2019alb\u00e2tre Hsinbyume, appel\u00e9e aussi le stupa Mya Thein Tan, une imposante meringue blanche construite en 1816 par le roi Bagyidaw pour sa femme morte en couche.\" title=\"Next up is the alabaster pagoda Hsinbyume, also known as the Mya Thein Tan stupa, an imposing white meringue built in 1816 by King Bagyidaw for his wife who died in childbirth.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/pagode-de-Mingun_21_compressed-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Next up is the alabaster pagoda Hsinbyume, also known as the Mya Thein Tan stupa, an imposing white meringue built in 1816 by King Bagyidaw for his wife who died in childbirth. \" class=\"wp-image-1204\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/pagode-de-Mingun_21_compressed-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/pagode-de-Mingun_21_compressed-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/pagode-de-Mingun_21_compressed-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/pagode-de-Mingun_21_compressed-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Next up is the alabaster pagoda Hsinbyume, also known as the Mya Thein Tan stupa, an imposing white meringue built in 1816 by King Bagyidaw for his wife who died in childbirth.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, we end our tour with a visit to the Mingun bell. At 8 metres high and weighing 90 tonnes, this bell is the 2nd largest in the world, behind the Tsar Kolokol in Moscow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Mahagandayon_1500_moines_et_novices\"><\/span>Mahagandayon: 1,500 monks and novices<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The last day is devoted to a visit to Mandalay, a city where the Chinese make up 50 % of the population and hold the trade. The boat docks a little outside the city. We take a taxi to Amarapura, around ten kilometres away, to watch the daily distribution of food to the monks of Mahagandayon monastery. 1500 monks and novices live here permanently, some as young as 4 or 5 years old.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-22_17-025-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-19\" data-rl_title=\"Le monast\u00e8re de Mahagandayon pr\u00e9sente peu d\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat en soi, mais ce qui est impressionnant est le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 silencieux des moines, bol \u00e0 la main, attendant de recevoir leur nourriture et de gagner un r\u00e9fectoire.\" data-rl_caption=\"Le monast\u00e8re de Mahagandayon pr\u00e9sente peu d\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat en soi, mais ce qui est impressionnant est le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 silencieux des moines, bol \u00e0 la main, attendant de recevoir leur nourriture et de gagner un r\u00e9fectoire.\" title=\"The Mahagandayon monastery is of little interest in itself, but what is impressive is the silent procession of monks, bowl in hand, waiting to receive their food and reach a refectory.\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-22_17-025-Copier-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"The Mahagandayon monastery is of little interest in itself, but what is impressive is the silent procession of monks, bowl in hand, waiting to receive their food and reach a refectory. \" class=\"wp-image-1188\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-22_17-025-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-22_17-025-Copier-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-22_17-025-Copier-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-22_17-025-Copier-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>The Mahagandayon monastery is of little interest in itself, but what is impressive is the silent procession of monks, bowl in hand, waiting to receive their food and reach a refectory.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This visit leaves the feeling of a somewhat voyeuristic intrusion into their monastic life. Generally, their commitment is free, but sometimes it is forced upon them. This is the case for children who are orphans or come from modest families who have no choice but to entrust them to a monastery. In some remote regions, the monastery also serves as a school.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, you can't leave Amarapura without a visit to the poetic U Bein Bridge (19th century), an astonishing teakwood footbridge spanning 1.2 kilometres of Lake Taungthaman. This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful images of Burma, a fragile figure of a timeless Asia that will soon be seen no more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Getting there<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Rivers of the World : <\/strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fleuves-du-monde.com\/voyage-irrawaddy\">https:\/\/www.fleuves-du-monde.com\/voyage-irrawaddy<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For over 20 years, Fleuves du Monde has been offering a different way of travelling by sailing along rivers. Created in 1989 in a spirit of sharing, the brand wanted to give travellers access to isolated cultures and places so that they could interact with local people while respecting their traditions. River cruising is the ideal way to discover a country, explore new itineraries and visit villages off the beaten track. Fleuves du Monde has long been involved in the design of its boats, as well as in the development and sustainability of its local service providers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-23_0041-Copier.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-image-20\" data-rl_title=\"Birmanie\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"Burma\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-23_0041-Copier-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1189\" srcset=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-23_0041-Copier.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-23_0041-Copier-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-23_0041-Copier-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-23_0041-Copier-600x338.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Les Amaras I and II<\/strong> are traditional Burmese boats that ply the Irrawaddy and Chindwin rivers. Built entirely of wood by Mingun craftsmen between 2006 and 2008, they are powered by powerful Japanese 6-cylinder Hino engines, each with 226 hp, enabling them to travel up the river in complete safety. While the 7 cabins of the Amara I are offered individually for cruises on fixed dates, the Amara II is booked on a free charter basis with 5 private cabins. Soberly decorated, they all have en suite shower rooms and air conditioning. The upper deck is divided between a restaurant, a bar and a sundeck.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A wastewater treatment system is part of Amara River Cruise's commitment to the environment, with 50 % of its profits earmarked for school and medical development projects.<br>Price: 15 days from \u20ac4,590.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Best travel dates : <\/strong>from November to March during the dry season<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Text and Photos : <\/strong>Brigitte Postel<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This is one of Burma's most interesting and least popular river cruises. From golden pagodas to monasteries, from forests to rice fields, from the fantastic to the unreal, the Irrawaddy reveals its world of beliefs and superstitions. Welcome to the land of...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1172,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[161,117,130,158],"tags":[13,90,99,16,114,29,40,51,52],"class_list":["post-1190","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-asie-croisieres","category-asie","category-birmanie","category-croisieres","tag-architecture","tag-art","tag-asie","tag-bateau","tag-femme","tag-gastronomie","tag-nature","tag-religion","tag-site-historique"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v27.3 (Yoast SEO v27.3) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Birmanie - De Bhamo \u00e0 Mandalay au fil du fleuve Irrawaddy -<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Croisi\u00e8re De Bhamo \u00e0 Mandalay sur l&#039;Amara, bateau traditionnel, pagodes, monast\u00e8res, Mahagandayon, Amarapura, Mingun, navigation\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Birmanie - De Bhamo \u00e0 Mandalay au fil du fleuve Irrawaddy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Croisi\u00e8re De Bhamo \u00e0 Mandalay sur l&#039;Amara, bateau traditionnel, pagodes, monast\u00e8res, Mahagandayon, Amarapura, Mingun, navigation\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/burma-from-bhamo-to-mandalay-along-the-irrawaddy-river\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Univers Voyage\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/universvoyage\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-08-07T17:14:52+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-12-11T10:39:06+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Photo-1-ouverture_DSC_0101-Copier.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1024\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"683\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Univers Voyage\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@UniversVoyage\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@UniversVoyage\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Univers Voyage\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"18 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/universvoyage.com\\\/birmanie-de-bhamo-a-mandalay-au-fil-du-fleuve-irrawaddy\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/universvoyage.com\\\/birmanie-de-bhamo-a-mandalay-au-fil-du-fleuve-irrawaddy\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Univers Voyage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/universvoyage.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/4aa7c0a0f0662832f798a2ce5b4d9f0c\"},\"headline\":\"Birmanie &#8211; 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