{"id":760,"date":"2016-04-05T20:55:38","date_gmt":"2016-04-05T19:55:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/universvoyage.com\/?p=760"},"modified":"2022-08-19T06:56:25","modified_gmt":"2022-08-19T05:56:25","slug":"india-rajasthan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/universvoyage.com\/en\/india-rajasthan\/","title":{"rendered":"India - Rajasthan\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Baneshwar tribal festival<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n

Rajasthan. \"Land of kings\" in Sanskrit. Above all, a land of the sacred. Dive into the biggest religious festival of the Bhil tribes.<\/p>\n

They are blacksmiths, shepherds and farmers. In the distant past, they were an influential group in Rajputana (formerly known as Rajasthan), Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat, and fought alongside the sovereigns of Mewar against the Mughal armies. History has made them formidable warriors and unrivalled hunters. They are the Bhil, India's third largest tribal community and the country's best archers, it is said.<\/p>\n

\"Recollection<\/a>

Recollection before scattering the ashes of the deceased.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Every year, on the full moon at the end of January or February (Magh Shukla Purnima), they gather in their thousands on the delta of the Som and Mahi rivers to celebrate Baneshwar \"the master of the Delta\", the local nickname for the god Shiva Linga whom they worship. With fervour, they pay homage to their ancestors, scatter the ashes of the year's dead and purify themselves in the sacred waters. For three days and three nights, they pray, dance and sing around bonfires lit in the surrounding desert. For most of the faithful, this pilgrimage required real organisation between families and neighbours.<\/p>\n

\"Pilgrims<\/a>

Pilgrims are crammed inside and on top of the cars.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n


<\/em>Piled inside and on top of the rare cars owned by the richest people, clinging to the doors, they sometimes travel hundreds of kilometres on chaotic roads. The others come on mopeds (it's not unusual to see up to 5 people on one), camels or on carts pulled by buffaloes with painted horns. But most of the time, pilgrims make the journey on foot. On arrival, they spread out in a gigantic improvised camp of stretched tarpaulins, jute canvas and colourful awnings.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The men in this family sell the tools they have made.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Vendors selling souvenirs, holy pictures, knick-knacks, various utensils and amusement parks complete the d\u00e9cor and help to create the atmosphere of a lively and joyful fair.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"Crowds<\/a>

Crowds flock to the Shiva temple.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

The festivities begin with a visit to the temple of Shiva, the third deity in the Hindu triad. Just before entering the sanctuary, a half-S\u00e2dhu, half-cerber priest beckons us with the tip of his stick to take off our shoes. Definitely! When we come out, they will have disappeared. Thieves also frequent the temples. Anyway, we leave with a third eye on our foreheads and we tell ourselves that our trainers have made people happy.<\/p>\n

\"Linga<\/a>

Linga and yoni accompanied by the bull Nandi.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

At the temple, the ritual consists of adorning the Shiva Linga with saffron - the symbol of fire and purity - a stone statue in the shape of a phallus erected on a circular base and resting on the yoni, the feminine symbol. It is accompanied by Shiva's vehicle, the bull Nandi. The faithful bathe it, perfume it with incense or adorn it with petals. A few signs traced in space, fragile markers of a kingdom of wind and light, a bell struck in passing, devotion is at its height. An impassive yogi, matured in shilom, clings to his dreams; time has no hold on him...<\/p>\n

Ancestor worship<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Staff<\/a>

Staff in hand, this Shivaite priest checks that the faithful remove their shoes as they enter the temple dedicated to Shiva.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

The tribes then set off in groups for the river to immerse the remains of the year's dead. The ashes are wrapped in a white cotton cloth if it's a man, red if it's a woman. The riverbanks are swarming with people, but there is no sadness on their faces, only contemplation. As best we can, we make our way through the colourful crowd, surprised to see a few Westerners strayed here. The women bathe and wash together, alone or alongside the men of the family. The water glues the saris to their skin, highlighting the grace and beauty of the multicoloured silhouettes reflected in the water. A few ablutions, a sip or two of water, a few prayers chanted, and almost everything is said. Water is a divinity here. Everyone offers their being to it. Even your car!<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The car had been purified in the sacred waters, but remained silted up!<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

\"Who's

Who's looking at whom, so real is the astonishment at seeing us?<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Not only is it good for the soul, it can often heal the body. That's why mothers don't hesitate for a moment to give it to their babies to drink, before our incredulous gazes. It doesn't matter that the river is full of filth and rubbish, that everyone does their washing and their needs in it! You have to immerse yourself in it, douse yourself in it and drink this \"nectar of immortality\". And immortality in India is not up for discussion. Hindus know full well that sooner or later, in this life or any other, they will achieve osmosis between their soul and the divine. We are all born and die over and over again. And in this game, every being has all eternity to win! Just imagine for a moment that you are living so that your next life will be better... it puts a lot of things into perspective!<\/p>\n

Sacred place... and market<\/strong><\/p>\n

Once the bath is over, everyone scatters around the stalls to do their shopping or meet up with distant relatives in an atmosphere of joyful fervour. Baneshwar is at once a sacred place, a meeting place and a gigantic market. In this unusual bric-a-brac, there's something for everyone: tools for working the land, kitchen utensils, kitschy knick-knacks or icons from the Hindu pantheon... Dressed in their brightly coloured saris and jewellery, the women go in groups to visit the stalls. The men sell, buy or barter. They wear simple white clothes, a symbol of simplicity and modesty. As for the young girls, their faces full of make-up and eyes highlighted with kohl, you'd think they were straight out of one of those Bollywood films that Indians are particularly fond of.<\/p>\n

\"Young<\/a>

Young Indian girls can't imagine life without jewellery.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

We eat standing up, sitting down or squatting on the floor, from a bowl or newspaper. You drink milk tea flavoured with cardamom, surrounded by the smell of incense, sandalwood and spices. You stroll past a stall selling sugar cane juice or a tattooist whose hygiene is not guaranteed.
In the evening, the vigil begins in the temple with offerings to Shiva: rice, peanuts, milk, candles... and continues in the open air. The women cook the meal over braziers fuelled by dried dung. While storytellers and singers entertain the crowd, accompanied by players of the satara, a bewitching-sounding flute. It's as if you're in another world, a world where your mind wanders in peace with itself. Henri Michaux once said: \"The Orient to orient yourself\"...<\/p>\n

\"In<\/a>

In India, a nose jewel is associated with fertility and feminine beauty.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n


Advice<\/strong>
The tribal festival of Baneshwar is still rarely visited by Western tourists. Baneshwar is located 70 km from Dungarpur, the \"City of Hills\", in the Arawallis mountains, not far from the border with Gujarat. Accommodation is at the Udai Bilas Palace in Dungarpur, a magnificent lakeside location whose owner, the current Maharajah, has preserved the quaint but grandiose atmosphere of the India of his ancestors.<\/p>\n

Lands of adventure<\/strong> offers a fortnight's tour of Rajasthan, giving you the chance to discover the Taj Mahal, the romantic city of Udaipur, Jodhpur and its fortress, as well as traditional life in the countryside and the Thar Desert.
http:\/\/www.terdav.com\/ps-inde\/rn-inde-nord\/tp-circuit-accompagne\/at-decouverte\/ind030–rajasthan-terre-fastes-couleurs<\/a><\/p>\n

Lands of adventure<\/strong>
Tel.: 01 70 82 90 00
www.terdav.com<\/a><\/p>\n

World travellers<\/strong> offers a number of tours of North India based around the legendary cities of Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Udaipur.
http:\/\/www.voyageursdumonde.fr\/voyage-sur-mesure\/recherche-voyage\/voyage-inde-du-nord\/inde<\/a>
Tel.: 01 84 17 21 64
http:\/\/www.voyageursdumonde.fr\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n

<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/h2>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The tribal festival of Baneshwar Rajasthan. \"Land of kings\" in Sanskrit. Above all, a land of the sacred. Immerse yourself in the biggest religious festival of the Bhil tribes. They are blacksmiths, shepherds or farmers. 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