Docked in Split, on Illyrian soil, Katarina Line?s Admiral yacht awaits its passengers for a week of luxury cruising on the Adriatic. Embark immediately to discover one of the most beautiful shores of the Mediterranean.
Is this the same Illyria of The night of kings by Shakespeare, in which two twins survive a shipwreck but are stranded at two different places on the coast, so that they think they have lost each other? "Imagination is so fertile in changing forms that nothing can match its bizarre fantasies. Lulled by the gentle roll of the yacht, the charm of a free spirit is at work.
Split, an open-air museum
Our journey begins in the centre of Dalmatia, in Split.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian - the place for which he listened to his childhood heart and left Rome to return to his native lands - is a must-see. Built of white Bra? stone, it covers an area of around 31,000 m² and forms part of the old town. This is an open-air museum. Inside the palace, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, built in the mid-seventh century, is well worth a visit. It houses the relics of the martyrs St Domnius and St Anastasius.
It's a merry hustle and bustle, where you can shop, wander around and admire the strength of this setting, which has also been used in the Game of Thrones. The city is surrounded by walls that are over a thousand years old. From lions carved into the walls, fossils of the Republic of Venice, the Serbian of Venice, from the Serbian character to the guttural language (try pronouncing "Hrvatska", meaning "Croatia"), Split has plenty to delight and Split has much to delight and amaze visitors.
Before you leave, be sure to rub the toe of the bronze statue of Grégoire de Nin (by sculptor Ivan Me?trovi?), which has become smooth due to the local belief that stroking his toe will bring good luck and make all your wishes come true... It's the foot!
S?edro and Korcula, jewels of the Adriatic
After a night on board, the roar of the engines reminds passengers that breakfast is served. The nine crew members are on hand to look after the thirty-five passengers.
Set course for S?edro, for a first dip in a cove filled with the sound of cicadas.
The captain then sets sail for Kor?ula, Croatia's third largest island.
Legend has it that Kor?ula is said to be the nymph Korkyra, whom Poseidon, jealous, transformed her into an island paradise. So it was on this possible island that we docked, admiring the fortifications and climbing the narrow the narrow stone steps of the bell tower of the church of Saint Mark. church.
Alone at the top of the bell tower, vibrating along with the with the bells that mark the quarters of an hour, the colour of the town, a subtle the white of the stones and the orange of the tiles, is as dazzling as the sun reflecting the sun reflected on the sea.
Then, moving away from the historic centre, we follow the so familiar to the southern lands of crickets, skirting the pine and holm oak forests pine and holm oak forests, picking a fig as you go, and finally stopping in a cove a fig along the way, before finally coming to a halt in a turquoise cove. Kor?ula is indeed the "Black Kor?ula" of the Greeks, so named because of the dark colour of its forests. because of the dark colour of its forests. It is also the most wooded island in in Croatia.
The peninsula is also famous for its vineyards, and you can enjoy the sunset with a glass of "Maximo" in your hand, while listening to the story behind its label. Rumour has it that Empress Maria Theresa of Austria and Baron Franio de Trenck, a Russian officer who commanded the pandours in her army, had a week-long affair in the wine cellar of a Slavonian monastery; to mark their "sexploits", they drew seventy lines on the walls. Can you believe it?
The island of honey: Mljet
Is this the mythical island of Ogygia, home of the nymph Calypso Calypso who took Ulysses in after his shipwreck? The western part of the island is classified as a national park. It has a rugged coastline and lush Mediterranean vegetation surrounding the two lakes. The lakes are the result of a rare phenomenon phenomenon: they are salty because they communicate with the sea via a canal and crevasses.
Ignjat Dordi? wrote in the 18th century that " on the island of Mljet, the branches of the trees down to the sea and shade the shoreline, and if you go by boat, you feel as if you are boat, you have the impression of sailing through a forest. ". And this still true today. As you go deeper into the forest, all the pines, oaks and thorny creepers make it impossible to leave the path. impossible. No matter how hard you try, you can?t venture out without your legs and arms. We hike along the GR paths, greeting the Croatians who live in the park, taking care not to wake an old woman dozing in the shade in the shade of her olive tree, looking for a beautiful viewpoint over the lakes. There are no venomous snakes or mongooses, but delightful foraging bees and a few and a few spiders with admirable webs.
Whichever paths you choose, they lead irresistibly to a swim in the turquoise water. to a dip in the turquoise waters.
The perimeter is about ten kilometres long, or two and a half hours' walk. two and a half hours, but it is easy to get distracted by the many natural natural access points to the water, so you'll need to allow a full day.
After Mljet, our boat will sail 36 nautical miles to Dubrovnik along the Elafiti archipelago.
Dubrovnik, the old Ragusa
The morning?s derusting starts with a climb up a hill. hill (405 metres difference in altitude), which will give you an overview of this typical give you a bird?s eye view of this typical medieval town, formerly known as the Republic of Ragusa, rival of Venice.
It is one of the most famous tourist destinations in Europe
in Europe, and one of the most beautiful urban areas in the Mediterranean.
The
the day when the big cruise ships, with their thousands of passengers on board
thousands of passengers on board. Phew! It?s a day
day; and so much the better, because an influx of visitors in this heat would
the charm of this setting, once again chosen for certain scenes in Game of Thrones
Game of Thrones, such as the fort at Lovrijenac, which protected the town from
from the hinterland as well as from the sea. Above the
the entrance door, a famous inscription in Latin: " non bene pro toto libertas venditur auro "
(you can't sell freedom, even for all the gold in the world). This fort hosts
during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, and it is not uncommon to see Shakespeare?s cult play
It is not uncommon to see Shakespeare?s cult play "Hamlet" performed here,
"Hamlet.
The pedestrian tour of the ramparts at sunset, with the play of light on the limestone with the play of light on the limestone and the view over the whole of the old town is an opportunity to spend a couple of hours facing the island of Lokrum and observing the the open sea, a contemplation pleasantly nuanced by the previous days of the where it was customary to observe the land from out at sea.
Pleasure sailing
The fifth day of the cruise is spent at sea aboard the Admiral. Today is 5 August, National Remembrance Day or Croatian National Renaissance Day, which commemorates the events of 5 August 1995, the liberation of Knin, a Serbian stronghold, by Croatian forces.
After being offered a tasting of carob liqueur for breakfast Croatian remedy, we're reluctant to go back to bed. to bed. The captain drops anchor near the wooded peninsula of Pelje?ac in a cove called Sabunara (sabun means sand in the Croatian dialect). Sabunara (sabun means sand in the local dialect). Attracted by the crystal-clear by the crystal-clear waters of the coastline, hemmed in by lacy rocks the seabed and its fish.
The barmaid provides service from the yacht?s tender, bringing cocktails to indulgent passengers.
As we leave this enchanting spot, dolphins frolic in the wake of our yacht; we gaze at them, lulled by the slow tempo of the navigation and the steady breeze.
After a night on board, our ship leaves Pelje?ac for Hvar (pronounced Kvar), the longest of the Dalmatian islands (68 kilometres long), where we dock in the afternoon. Equipped with our 'whispers' (audiophones), as we are every time we disembark, we set off on a guided tour of the town, just long enough to get our bearings in terms of history and culture.
In 1612, at a time when only aristocrats had access to culture Prince Pietro Semitecolo decided to create a space on the first floor of the the first floor of the Arsenal, a place used for repairing ships and storing maritime renovated in 2009.
Access to the Fortica (?panjola) fortress, originally designed originally intended to protect the town, by a path winding upwards through prickly pear prickly pear and agave trees. Its construction was completed in the mid century, on a hill overlooking the old part of the town of Hvar. of Hvar. This brief tour ends with a visit to the old dungeons, which give us a glimpse of the living conditions in the old days. a glimpse of what life was like for a prisoner in the sixteenth century.
On your return to the boat, at nightfall or in the early hours of the morning for those who have enjoyed an unforgettable party at the famous Carpe Diem, don?t forget to lock your cabin, because at night, yacht doors all look the same, and no one is safe from a partygoer who?s a little too tipsy.
Bra? wild coves and turquoise bays
The next day, we approach the island of Bra? via Bol, a coastal town on the south coast. This renowned seaside resort is typical of Dalmatia, with its harbour, daily market and white stone houses where time seems to stand still. Walk along the harbour and enjoy a glass of fruity Croatian wine, almost with your feet in the water. Bra? is famous for the open-air quarries from which its white stone is extracted. were quarried for the construction of Diocletian?s Palace and even Diocletian?s Palace and even the White House in Washington!
Zlatni Rat is the ideal place for sunbathing and water sports water sports such as kitesurfing, sea kayaking and windsurfing. windsurfing. Only an hour's ferry ride from Split, this spot is very popular with Croatians. popular with Croatians.
The night is illuminated by the "tears of Saint Laurent", a swarm of meteors that seem to come from the constellation of Perseus. On this last night on board, the Admiral?s passengers enjoy the show and dance, remembering Horace?s verses. the spectacle and dance, remembering Horace?s verses, " Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero ("Seize the day, relying as little as possible on tomorrow"). tomorrow as possible").
Text: Capucine Ferry
Photos: Capucine Ferry and Brigitte Postel
Practical notebook
Did you know about Dalmatians? ?
"Dalmatia" derives from the name of the Illyrian tribe Delmata ("delm" meaning shepherd; cattle rearing must have been the tribe?s main occupation). The eponymous dog breed originated in Dalmatia.
Split
Where to dine?
Visit NostromoThere's no doubt about it. Grilled calamari and Croatian-style fish.
www.restoran-nostromo.hrhttp://www.restoran-nostromo.hr
Krav Sv. Marije 10 /pokraj ribarnice / 21 000 Split ? Croatia
Where to go out?
Inbox club
From the boat, the electro music coming from the quayside is a real curiosity. It's easy to get caught up in the city's nightlife, sipping cocktails, chatting and dancing.
Getting there
The Croatian company Katarina Line has a fleet of 66 boats in 6 different categories. It supports and donates one euro per passenger to the Down?s Syndrome Association, a total of 30,000 euros in 2017.
The Admiral yacht is one of the most luxurious. The rooms are very spacious, the staff very attentive and the common areas provide spaces where everyone?s privacy is preserved. Capacity for 39 passengers: 19 double cabins and one single cabin. Heated Jacuzzi and spacious sun deck. Excellent local cuisine.
An English-speaking guide accompanies passengers on some cruises. https://www.katarina-line.com/
