With its white stone facades, arcaded streets, Grosse Horloge, Renaissance Town Hall and fine 17th and 18th century shipowners? houses, La Rochelle boasts a remarkable architectural heritage. It is also Europe?s 2nd largest yachting harbour.
Empowered by Eleanor of Aquitaine in the 12th century, the town depended on both the English and the King of France, and was exempt from customs duties. It was a city of merchants and puritans, without the superb reputation of Bordeaux.
The ideas of the Reformation were so appealing to the inhabitants that in 1568, the town chose sides: Protestant, it drove out the last Catholics and tore down its churches. In 1573, La Rochelle refused to open its gates to the king's governor and garrison, so the town was besieged. It became a Protestant place of safety after the signing of the Edict of Nantes (in 1598), which put an end to the Wars of Religion and gave the French Reformed a special status in the kingdom. From 1590 to 1620, La Rochelle became a free city and flourished both economically and culturally.
Warm-blooded and cool-headed, the "Capital" of the Huguenots was a "privateer" stronghold whose fleet fought Spanish ships to supply and finance the city. The 3 towers of La Rochelle are the remains of the fortifications built around the town. The Tour St-Nicolas and the Tour de la Chaîne are the gateway to the old port. They ensured its defence.
At the end of the Middle Ages, to be visible from afar, a Gothic spire was built on the Lantern Tower: the tower became a bittern (a landmark for boats). A stone lantern was added and the tower was transformed into a lighthouse! It became a prison in the 16th century.
Two gargoyles are of particular interest and curiosity: the effigy of cartoonists Cabu and Wolinski, victims of the murderous attack on the Cathedral. Charlie Hebdo In January 2015, they were unveiled at the inauguration of the recently renovated Tour de la Lanterne.
With its exports of wine and wheat and its financial wealth, the capital of the Huguenots formed a state within a state that threatened Richelieu?s policy of unification. And when the mayor fired cannon at the royal troops on 10 September 1627, the repression was swift. The great siege of La Rochelle, ordered by the King and commanded by Cardinal de Richelieu, then began. Eleven months of siege, fortifications and a dike put an end to the resistance of the people of La Rochelle in 1629. The Protestant city had to capitulate, despite the help sent by England. From a town of 20,000 inhabitants, only 5,000 survived.
The New World
On the strength of its commercial experience (salt, wine, brandy), La Rochelle began to recover. Between 1630 and 1635, regular relations with the "New World" began, while the intellectual renaissance and artistic influence of La Rochelle intensified. In the 18th century, La Rochelle made a living from its great colonial trade. Ships were armed to sail to Canada, the sugar islands and the coasts of West Africa: triangular trade, fur trade with New France (Canada), raw sugar and indigo trade with Santo Domingo (Haiti), and sugar refining became La Rochelle?s main activity.
The streets of La Rochelle bear witness to the slave trade's past. The shipowners who became planters and merchants built fortunes and beautiful homes hidden behind high walls and heavy doors. The homes of the Fleuriau family (now a museum), the Garesché family and the Maison Weiss (renamed La Résidence des Indes) are all part of La Rochelle's heritage. The plaque at the entrance to the Musée du Nouveau-Monde reads: "Hôtel Fleuriau, place of memory of slavery". In the courtyard, visitors are greeted by the 2.80 m statue of Toussaint Louverture, a freed slave who became governor of Saint-Domingue in 1801. It was created by Ousmane Sow, the famous Senegalese sculptor. Benjamin Fleuriau?s family lived in this mansion from 1772 to 1974. The 2nd level is devoted to New France and the fur trade. It?s a fun museum where children can touch animal skins, play Indian and have fun with tools and arrows. Before heading off to the Aquarium, opposite the Old Port.
D?une superficie de 8000 m2, cet aquarium est la star du département. Il contient plus de 3 millions de tonnes d?eau et 12.000 animaux marins. Méduses, tortues et quelques requins font prendre conscience de la fragilité de la vie sous-marine.
www.infiniment-charentes.com
www.museedunouveaumonde.larochelle.fr
www.aquarium-larochelle.com
Text and Photos : Michèle Lasseur
Read
Private mansions in La Rochelle
Did you know that the historic centre of La Rochelle boasts almost a hundred private mansions? What is hidden behind these high walls and monumental portals? Often beautiful stonework and timeless gardens? Let?s push open these heavy doors to discover these treasures of La Rochelle?s heritage in the company of Jean-Louis Mahé (for the texts) and Yann Werdefroy (for the photos).
Private mansions in La Rochelle
Jean-Louis Mahé ? Yann Werdefroy
La Geste, 39.90?
