A landmark in Budapest city centre, the Párisi Udvar welcomed us for a few days for a family celebration. This historic jewel houses one of the most refined five-star hotels in Budapest. Unbound Collection by Hyatt. Unquestionably one of the finest palaces in the Hungarian capital.
Built in 1817 on behalf of Baron Jozsef Brudern, the building was initially converted into a shopping arcade modelled on the Passage des Panoramas in Paris (hence its name - la cour de Paris or Párisi udvar). Following the 1883 redevelopment plan for the Hungarian capital, the building was dismantled and then rebuilt from 1909 onwards under the direction of the Hamburg architect Henrik Schmahl (1846-1912) - architect of the Budapest Opera House - for the city's Savings Bank. After five years of work, the result is a masterpiece that is unique in Europe: Art Nouveau, neo-Gothic style and Moorish elements combine to create a veritable work of art.
For the decoration, the architect chose the finest materials: Hungarian ceramics by Zsolnay, partly sourced from the Zsolnay factory in Pécs, and floor tiles by Villeroy & Boch, for example. And he is bold enough to adorn the bow of the building with busts of men and women, like modern gargoyles. Schmahl surrounded himself with exceptional craftsmen such as the artist Miksa Roth (1865 - 1944) for the stained glass and the master Gyula Jungfer (1841 - 1908) for the wrought iron. He also preserved the shopping arcade with its luxury boutiques and cafés frequented by the intelligentsia. In short, he made it an iconic building in the city that is still admired today.
Decadence and renewal
Spared by the bombings of the Second World War, the building was nationalised by the Communists after the war and, sadly, gradually fell into disrepair. If you visited this place just a few years ago, in many ways it was a shadow of its former glory. It was especially popular with film-makers, who took advantage of the passageway and its subdued natural light to set the scene for secret meetings in spy films such as Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy (La Taupe, 2011).
Fortunately, in 2014, the building was renovated by Archikon (https://www.archikon.hu/projects/3 and https://share-architects.com/speaker/archikon-architects/) and interior design studio Kroki (https://www.krokistudio.com/); a final renovation that will culminate in 2019 in the building that houses the 5-star hotel we see today.
All the historic features have been restored or recreated, including the splendid decorations for which the venue is renowned. The glass dome has been fitted with a protective covering, and the wooden panels in the Arab-Moorish style, embellished with gilding and dazzling brass, have been rebuilt exactly as they were.
The once open courtyard has now been roofed over with glass panels. It is home to the Párisi Passage Café & Brasserie, where you can enjoy delicious Hungarian cuisine, the Étoile Champagne Bar, with its cosy atmosphere, and, as in the past, a number of luxury boutiques - chocolatier, Herend porcelain, and so on.
Parisi Udvar: Chic and elegant
Located in the city's 5th district, the central shopping district, in the immediate vicinity of major sites such as the Parliament, the Opera, the Chain Bridge and Saint Stephen's Basilica, the Parisi Udvar is the ideal address for discovering the rich heritage of the Hungarian capital. It offers 110 rooms, including 18 luxury suites and two presidential suites, all decorated in a contemporary style by Hungarian artist Agnes Tóth.
Embodying a certain vision of timeless luxury, the refined palette of beige, ecru and white contrasts with the opulence of the communal areas.
Villeroy & Boch has also once again taken possession of the space, with flagship items from its collections (taps, washbasins, etc.) installed in the marble-clad bathroom areas.
The two- and three-bedroom presidential suites can be linked together for a more private and discreet stay. They are equipped with saunas, steam baths, whirlpools and relaxation areas. Their terraces are ideal for admiring the sunset. The hotel also boasts four meeting and event spaces covering more than 300 square metres, which can accommodate up to 160 guests. And if you want to relax, the Parisi Udvar has a pleasant wellness area, the Zafir Spa, with treatment and massage rooms, a whirlpool, sauna, indoor pool and fitness room.
Traditional Hungarian cuisine
The Párisi Passage Café and Brasserie Passage serve Hungarian-inspired cuisine made with local produce. The dishes are accompanied by a varied drinks menu and an impressive selection of champagne. The welcome is friendly and professional without being stuffy. Let the sommelier guide you through some excellent Hungarian wines. Whether for dinner or a gourmet break, we recommend this fine address.
https://www.hyatt.com/fr-FR/hotel/hungary/parisi-udvar-hotel/budub
Text : Brigitte Postel
Photos : Brigitte Postel and DR in the absence of copyright.