More than just a stopover in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, the town of Cognac, birthplace of François 1er and Jean Monnet, one of the fathers of modern Europe, has given its name to the famous eau-de-vie, made from white wine from the region, which has contributed to the fame of this town of 20,000 inhabitants.
This is Europe's largest white grape vineyard. Seventy-five thousand hectares spread over the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions. When you raise a glass of cognac (1) to the light, you see beautiful golden colours shining like an autumn sky at sunset. In these few centilitres, you have a landscape of scents and tastes, but also five centuries of history, the history of a spirit enjoyed and appreciated the world over.
The Royal Château of Cognac overlooks the river Charente, which has enabled Cognac?s eaux-de-vie to be exported all over the world. The château now belongs to the Baron Otard et d'Ussé Cognac house. The thickness of the walls provides exceptional and unique conditions for the ageing of the eaux-de-vie. VSOP, XO and EXTRA BARON OTARD cognacs are stored in the dry, damp cellars (low vaults). When a cognac approaches perfection, the cellar master takes it to "paradise", a small secret corner where centuries-old eaux-de-vie are kept.
From vine to still, from cellar to glass
François 1st is enthroned at the heart of the town, in the centre of a square where his equestrian statue represents him. From the square, wide streets lead down to the Cours de la Charente. Along the way, we come across a number of private mansions, the remains of the Récollets convent and the church of Saint-Léger, with its sculpted portal representing the 12 signs of the zodiac and its rib-vaulted nave.
How heavy can your autumn melancholy be at the cocktail bar Le Louise in the company of a bartender? We go through 6 crus of the vineyard: Petite Champagne, Grande Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires. Open your eye and raise your glass: depending on the ageing and the type of oak used, the colour varies from pale white to dark amber. Slowly turn the glass and observe the straw yellow to amber hue, the viscosity, the tears of this eau-de-vie. Cognac is said to cry. Gently turn the glass again, aerate, and you will find fruity notes: pressed grapes, vanilla, dried vine shoots.
The production area covers 80,000 hectares in Charente-Maritime and Charente. Only the double-heating method is authorised for distillation, provided it is carried out in a pure copper still with a capacity of less than 30 hectolitres. The alcoholic strength must be 72°. It is aged in oak casks from the Tronçais forest for a minimum of 30 months.
For the record, the acronym VS (very special) on the label indicates a blend of eaux-de-vie, the oldest of which is four and a half years old. VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) means that the youngest spirit used is between four and a half and six and a half years old. Napoléon, XO or Hors d?Age means that all the eaux-de-vie blended are at least six and a half years old.
The Martell Corporate Foundation
Housed in a 3,200 m2 building in the heart of Cognac, this cultural entity organises exhibitions of contemporary art. It also offers artists residencies so that they can create works of art on site, in the "Ateliers du faire". They work in partnership with craftspeople specialising in woodwork, glass and ceramics. Access to the Foundation is via a 35-metre-long vaulted tunnel.
The roof of the building is a panoramic tasting area. Martell, founded in 1715 by Jean Martell, is the oldest of the cognac houses. It perpetuates the know-how of its winegrowers, distillers, coopers.
Allary cooperage in Archiac
All along the roads that criss-cross the Cognac region, the locals - coopers, winegrowers and distillers - talk endlessly about eaux-de-vie and love to show off their skills.
Cognac is aged exclusively in oak barrels. The ageing of the cognac depends on the selection of the wood used to assemble the barrel. The oak comes from the Tronçais, Limousin and Vosges forests.
In the 1960s, the cooperage worked mainly for the Cognac region, supplying cognac producers with casks and barrels. The 92-year-old founder, Roger Allary, takes us on a tour of his favourite viewpoint: "The Allary cooperage uses only top-quality oak staves (rectangular pieces of wood) to make the barrel.
Machining consists of shortening, shaping, hollowing out and joining the oak staves to make a stave. Assembling the barrel, known as "mise en rose", is a UNESCO-listed skill of the craftsmen; without nails or glue, the staves are assembled in a circle to make the barrel. They are held together by metal hoops. Heating softens the wood. All that remains is to fit the steel ring. The last operation is the "bousinage", a vital stage in barrel making. This is a complex process of toasting operations which, by controlling the time taken to " toasting and intensity, allowing the aromatic and tannic oenological potential of the oak staves to be expressed. Allary cooperage exports to over 30 countries on 5 continents.
1 - Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health.
www.cognac.fr
www.fondationdentreprisemartell.com
www.tonnellerie-allary.com
Text and Photos : Michèle Lasseur unless otherwise stated
Opening photo: View of the vineyards and Boutteville castle. Charentes' TO.
