The old town of Le Mans: A Gallo-Roman city wall, a soaring cathedral, an old quarter worthy of the Plantagenets, rillettes, chickens and capons: it's well worth including it in the twenty-four hours of a discovery tour.
Good old Stéphane Le Fol! So you can meet the mayor on a Sunday morning at the big market in Le Mans, at the foot of the cathedral. His basket in hand, he looks like an affable man, and almost makes you believe in the simplicity of our elected representatives.
A cathedral dedicated to Julien, his first bishop
I was far from expecting this superb thing. Carved in a pure wheat of light, in an angelic ray that in places is coloured a delicate pink".wrote Paul Claudel in his Diary of 17 April 1925. Freeze-framed in stone, Saint-Julien Cathedral has escaped the ravages of time. It is the most extraordinary blend of flamboyant Gothic and early Renaissance. A gigantic Gothic choir contrasts with a Romanesque nave. The magnificent chevet unfurls like a wide openwork fan over the Place des Jacobins. Situated on the mound of the old town, the cathedral's tower reaches a height of 64 metres, making it the tallest building in the town.
The entrance is unofficial, despite its famous guardian: a 4.55-metre-high pink sandstone menhir, a relic of Celtic beliefs. This pagan symbol was saved from destruction by Saint-Julien, who came to Christianise Le Mans in the 4th century. It has been listed as a historic monument since 1889.
Its colourful stained glass windows - one of the finest groups of medieval stained glass windows - and its chapels, sculptures and frescoes, which tell the stories of the saints, provide visitors with symbolic and historical landmarks. It was here that the Duke of Normandy, Count of Anjou and Maine and future King of England, Henry II Plantagenet, born in Le Mans, was baptised.
But lovers of old stone will be disappointed. The Revolution of 1789 swept away the tomb of his father Geoffroy V le Bel, who was married in Le Mans cathedral in 1128. What remains is his enamel, a copper tombstone engraved with his name, on display at Le Mans' museum of archeology and history.
The historic heart of the Plantagenet town
The cobbled streets of the old town, lined with timber-framed houses, stretch over twenty hectares, hemmed in by a Roman wall. The best and the worst of the old buildings can be found here, with facades boasting sculpted medallions, mullioned windows and elaborate balconies. There is the 16th-century Palais du Grabatoire, occupied by the bishopric, and opposite it a graceful dwelling with a turret, a Renaissance masterpiece. Another dwelling with a small canted turret bears the memory of Paul Scarron (1610-1660), who was a canon of the cathedral and also the husband of the young Françoise d'Aubigné, who later became the Marquise de Maintenon, secret wife of Louis XIV.
The 19th century mercilessly erased the surrounding area and its structures: William the Conqueror's keep, the castle towers and the former bishop's palace. According to popular legend, the half-timbered Red Pillar house was once the home of the town's executioner. He would wipe his hands on the pillar after his macabre work. Today, during the summer season, it houses the tourist office. It is also the starting point for many guided tours of the town. Another building of interest is the House of Adam and Eve, built in 1525 by the doctor and astrologer Jean de l'Épine, and adorned with beautiful sculptures.
While the cathedral is Gothic and the old town medieval, the Gallo-Roman walls, with their geometric ornamentation and ochre colours, give the old town a great deal of charm. This little jewel clutches towers above it in disarray just for the pleasure of the view. Beyond such beauty, we await the patina of a Unesco listing.
The 24 hours race of Le Mans: a legend born in Sarthe
The proof is in the form of the trams, some of which have been decked out in the colours of the Le Mans 24 Hours. More than just a race, it's a test of courage and tenacity, a must for motor sport enthusiasts.
Flashback: 102 years ago, on 26 May 1923, the 24 Hours Endurance Grand Prix got underway.
It was a daring idea: the Automobile Club de l'Ouest had decided to have drivers compete for 24 hours in a row, testing their courage, skill and the strength of their cars. It was a French team that won this first event, with drivers René Lagache and André Léonard. They drove a Chenard & Walcker no. 9. They covered 128 laps at an average speed of 92.064 km/h, a feat for the time!
Renowned manufacturers joined the battle: Bentley, Alfa Romeo, Ferrari, Porsche. 1966 saw the fierce battle between Ford and Ferrari. The drivers, these modern heroes, pushed back the limits of speed and endurance. Over the decades, new records were set and hybrid cars appeared, combining performance and respect for the environment.
It was here that Steve McQueen made a film about the duel that had pitted Ferrari against Ford for decades. " Le Mans" began shooting on 7 June 1970, a week before the 38th edition of the 24 Hours. The film's fame was short-lived. Although Steve McQueen never raced at Le Mans, Paul Newman, an experienced driver, was 2nd overall in the 1979 24 Hours at the wheel of a Porsche 935.
What's on :
- The Gallo-Roman walls, an irregular quadrilateral 450 m long and 200 m wide, protected the old town for over fifteen centuries.
- An ancient spa complex, in operation between 50 AD and 275 AD. Free tours in summer. Go directly to 28 avenue Rostov-sur-le-Don.
- Saint-Julien Cathedral, Place Saint-Michel.
- The Plantagenet City by lantern light.
Hôtel Leprince & Spa****
In the heart of Le Mans, the 4-star Leprince Hôtel and Spa, Best Western Premier Collection, is located in the former Visitation convent, built in the 18th century.
www.leprince-hotel-spa.com
Text : Michèle Lasseur
Photos : Sylvain Grandadam unless otherwise stated
Opening photo : Michèle Lasseur
