In Istanbul?s Edinerkapi district, the church of Saint-Sauveur-in-Chora is home to some stunning mosaics and frescoes dating back to the Byzantine Empire.

Church of Saint Saviour in Chora.
Church of Saint Saviour in Chora.

The church/mosque of Chora is certainly the most emblematic monument of the Eastern Roman Empire or Byzantium. It is located within the historic walls of Istanbul, but this was not always the case. The exact date of its construction is not known. We do know, however, that at the time of Constantine I (emperor from 306 to 337 AD) - who unified the Empire and chose Constantinople as its capital - there was already a chapel. When Theodosius II built the city walls at the beginning of the 5th century, the emperor incorporated the chapel, which was probably flanked by a number of monastic cells, into the city?s defensive system, thus increasing its importance. It was given the name en te Chora The name was changed to "in the countryside". (In modern Greek, khôra (????) means "land", but in ancient Greek this word referred to a predominantly rural area dependent on a town).
In 534, the Emperor Justinian commissioned Saint Theodore of Chora to build a church and monastery on the site of the small chapel, but it was not until the 11th century that Maria Dukaina, the mother-in-law of Alexis I Comnenus, had the church rebuilt in the Greek cross style within a square building, a style that would later serve as a model for all Orthodox churches. In 1296, the church suffered a partial collapse following an earthquake. It was rebuilt by Isaac Comnenus, the third son of Alexis. However, it was not until two centuries later that the church acquired the form we know today, when an exonarthex and a side chapel, a parecclésion, were added. In 1261, Michael Palaeologus reconquered Constantinople, which had been taken in 1204 by the Latins during the Fourth Crusade, and sought to restore the importance of the Byzantine Empire. The architect of this renaissance was the great logothete (financial administrator) Theodore Metochite who, between 1315 and 1321, endowed the church with most of its magnificent mosaics and frescoes, which we can admire today and which constitute an exceptional treasure.

After the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, the church continued to be used for Catholic worship until 1511, when Atik Ali Pacha, the grand vizier of Bayezid II, converted it into a mosque. Because of the Islamic ban on depictions of man, the mosaics and frescoes were covered with lime and wooden panels, which saved them from destruction.
Listed as a museum since 1948, the church of Saint-Sauveur-in-Chora is also known as the Karyie Camiithe Chora mosque. All the frescoes and mosaics were excavated in 1948 by Thomas Whittemore and Paul Underwood of the Byzantine Institute of Americawho undertook the restoration of what is now the richest collection of mosaics from the last golden age of Byzantine art.

Chora. The representation of Christ the Pantocrator is located above the door leading to the exterior narthex. He holds the Holy Scriptures in his left hand and makes a sign of blessing with his right.
Chora. Christ the Pantocrator is depicted above the doorway leading to the outer narthex. He holds the Holy Scriptures in his left hand and makes a sign of blessing with his right hand.
Chora. The fresco of the Resurrection is depicted on the half-dome of the apse of the Parecclession. Christ pulls Adam and Eve out of the sarcophagi.
Chora. The fresco of the Resurrection is depicted on the half-dome of the apse of the Parecclession. Christ pulls Adam and Eve out of the sarcophagi.

The most beautiful mosaics of the Byzantine Renaissance

Above the door leading to the exterior narthex, Christ Pantocrator is depicted holding the holy book in his left hand and making a sign of blessing with his right hand.
Above the door leading to the exterior narthex, Christ Pantocrator is depicted holding the holy book in his left hand and making a sign of blessing with his right hand.

When you enter the outer narthex, you cannot help but be dazzled by the magnificence of the mosaics with their gold backgrounds, which seem to catch the light while magnifying the imposing figure of Christ the Pantocrator that decorates the portal, the scenes from the life of Jesus and his miracles.

The interior narthex shows Theodore Metochite offering the church to Christ and a complete cycle of the Virgin's life, inspired mainly by the apocryphal Gospel of Saint James.

Theodore Metochite, who completed the construction of the church of Chora, is shown in his oriental clothes, offering the model of the church to Jesus.
Theodore Metochite, who completed the construction of the church of Chora, is shown in his oriental clothes, offering the model of the church to Jesus.
Saint Peter is depicted in the interior narthex, holding the keys to the kingdom of heaven.
Saint Peter is depicted in the interior narthex, holding the keys to the kingdom of heaven.
In the interior narthex, Saint Paul is depicted standing, making the sign of blessing with his right hand.
In the interior narthex, Saint Paul is depicted standing, making the sign of blessing with his right hand.
Jesus of Khalke in the interior narthex of Chora.
Jesus of Khalke in the interior narthex of Chora.

The miracles of Jesus

The inner and outer narthexes depict numerous miracles from the life of Christ.

One of the pendants in the outer narthex depicts the miracle of the wedding at Cana.
One of the pendants in the outer narthex depicts the miracle of the wedding at Cana.
Miracle of the multiplication of the loaves.
Miracle of the multiplication of the loaves.
To the east of the arch of the interior narthex, Jesus is depicted healing a hydropic patient.
In To the east of the arch of the interior narthex, Jesus is depicted healing a hydropic patient.
To the west of one of the arches in the inner narthex, Jesus is depicted healing a leper who is stretching out his arms, his body and face covered in spots.
To the west of one of the arches in the interior narthex, Jesus is depicted healing a leper who is stretching out his arms, his body and face covered in spots.
On the south-east pendant of the dome of the interior narthex, a woman suffering from haemorrhage begs Jesus to heal her.
On the south-east pendant of the dome of the interior narthex, a woman suffering from haemorrhage begs Jesus to heal her.
In the north-east dome of the interior narthex, Jesus heals Peter's mother-in-law.
In the north-east dome of the interior narthex, Jesus heals Peter's mother-in-law.
The centre of the vault of the interior narthex shows Jesus healing a paralytic from Capernaum with the apostle Peter next to him...
The centre of the vault of the interior narthex shows Jesus healing a paralytic from Capernaum. The apostle Peter is next to him.

The figure of Mary

Mary is depicted in several places on Chora. First of all her childhood and then with the infant Jesus.

Chora. On the west side of the vault of one of the parts of the interior narthex, there is a mosaic depicting the adoration of Mary. Her father, Joachim, and her mother, Anne, adore their daughter Mary, whom they hold in their arms.
Chora. On the west side of the vault of one of the parts of the interior narthex, there is a mosaic depicting the adoration of Mary. Her father, Joachim, and her mother, Anne, adore their daughter Mary, whom they hold in their arms.
In the outer narthex, there is a representation of King Herod and three magi who inform the king of the birth of the "new king" of the Jews.
In the outer narthex, there is a representation of King Herod and three magi who inform the king of the birth of the "new king" of the Jews.
The Holy Family, with Mary on a donkey and Joseph behind, goes to Bethlehem for the census.
The Holy Family, with Mary on a donkey and Joseph behind, goes to Bethlehem for the census.
The census before Governor Quirinus seated on his throne.
The census before Governor Quirinus seated on his throne.
On the arch above the exterior narthex, Mary is depicted praying. Jesus, who represents the universe, is in a medallion on his mother's breast. On either side is the inscription "Mother of God, the place of her whom no space can contain".
On the arch above the exterior narthex, Mary is depicted praying. Jesus, who represents the universe, is in a medallion on his mother's breast. On either side is the inscription "Mother of God, the place of her whom no space can contain".
In the centre of the dome of the parecclesion, Mary and Jesus are depicted in a medallion. Jesus makes a sign of blessing with both hands.
In the centre of the dome of the parecclesion, Mary and Jesus are depicted in a medallion. Jesus makes a sign of blessing with both hands.

For more information
Turkish Tourist Office
https://turquietourisme.ktb.gov.tr

Text and Photos: Brigitte Postel