It is a romantic city, bathed in lakes, where the palaces still rustle with the splendour of the Maharanas. We are in Udaïpur, capital of Rajasthan's oldest kingdom, Mewar.
Surrounded by verdant mountains where the maharanas hunted tigers on elephant back, Udaïpur is a Rajput stronghold founded in the 16th century to protect its inhabitants from Mughal attacks and their suicidal tendencies. Indeed, these famous warriors would fight to the death while their wives and children would immolate themselves when defeat was imminent. Legend has it that a wise man advised Maharana Udai Singh II to establish his stronghold in this reputedly impregnable site in the heart of the Arawalli range, in order to avoid these massacres. This is how the City Palace, the largest palace in Rajasthan, came into being in the 16th century.
Nicknamed the "Venice of the East", this city is enchanting with its sumptuous architecture, marble palaces and atmosphere steeped in history. For many years, Udaïpur was the seat of the Mewar kingdom, one of the oldest and most prestigious in India. Today, it attracts travellers and dreamers, fascinated by the grandeur of its palaces, such as the City Palace, the Lake Palace and the Jag Mandir, which seem to float on the sparkling waters of the lakes.
The City Palace: citadel of the kings of Mewar
Made of granite and marble, this airy fortress, 244 m long and over 30 m high, is a labyrinthine series of terraces, kiosks, corridors, staircases, patios, gardens and pavilions that each maharana has added to over the centuries.
The monumental palace has been revealing its secrets since 1952, when some of the rooms were opened to the public. The entrance is via the Bari Pol (1600) and the Tripolia Pol (1725) with its eight sculpted marble arches. From palaces to gardens, everything is designed to exalt the senses, pleasure and beauty: Manak Mahal, the palace of rubies; Bari Mahal, a Mughal-style garden created in the 18th century; Dilkusha Mahal, the palace of joy; Chini Chitrashala, the Chinese salon covered in Dutch earthenware; Moti Mahal, the palace of pearls; Shish Mahal, the palace of mirrors.
Decorated in the rajput and Mughal styles, the building is a little outdated, baroque to a fault and surprisingly harmonious.
These beautiful homes of wealthy merchants or haveli were so named (haveli comes from hava : air). This is due to the large number of open windows that allow air to circulate during the very hot summers. These windows or jharokhas are veritable lacework of carved stone. They include coloured glass inlays, enamel mosaics and mirrors. These elements are typical of Rajput and Mughal art, often used to create spectacular plays of light inside rooms. They allow light to filter through while protecting the privacy of the ancient sovereigns.
Part of the palace has been converted into a museum open to visitors. This museum exhibits historical objects, miniature paintings, weapons, royal garments and, of course, the palace's sumptuous original decor. Another part of the City Palace remains the private residence of the royal family of Udaïpur. Since the death of his father, Shri Arvind Singh Mewar in March 2025, Lakshyaraj Singh Mewar has taken over the running of the family affairs.   While his cousin Vishvaraj Singh Mewar was recognised as the symbolic head of the Mewar royal family in 2024. He is considered to be the heir to one of the oldest royal dynasties in the world. Although he no longer holds political power, he plays an active role in preserving Mewar's cultural heritage.
Finally, other palace buildings have been converted into luxury hotels, such as the Shiv Niwas Palace and the Fateh Prakash Palace, which allow visitors to live a princely experience while generating income for the maintenance of the complex. All of this is managed by the current descendant of this Mewar lineage, which is older than the English family.
The three peacocks of the Mor Chowk or Peacock Court date from the reign of Maharana Sajjan Singh around 1750 and represent the 3 seasons: summer, winter and monsoon. They are sculpted in high relief with coloured glass mosaics in niches in the courtyard wall. They are made up of 5,000 pieces of coloured glass and glazed tiles. The peacock, India's national bird, has an important symbolic role. According to Hindu mythology, the peacock was created from one of the feathers of the mythical bird Garuda, a majestic bird that carried Lord Vishnu on its back. It is also the vâhana (vehicle) of Krishna.
The Lake Palace: a floating jewel
Just opposite the City Palace, in the middle of Lake Pichola, the Jag Niwas seems to float on water. Today, this white marble palace is one of the jewels in the crown of the Taj hotel chain, known as Taj Lake Palace. And undoubtedly one of the most romantic hotels in India.
The Young Maharana Jagat Singh II (reign: 1734-1751) - 62nd sovereign of the Mewar dynasty - is said to have had it built in the 18th century, between 1743 and 1746, as a quiet retreat for himself and a few ladies, as his father had refused to allow him to use the Jag Mendir palace (the palace in the lake gardens built by his grandfather) for his amorous escapades. He wanted a summer retreat from the sweltering heat of the city, and chose this small islet in the heart of Lake Pichola to build a strikingly beautiful palace, entirely in white marble. At dusk, the sky above Lake Pichola turns pink. The slanting light, filtered by the warm Rajasthani air, caresses the white marble façades, which seem to gently catch fire. The lake, a peaceful mirror, extends this celestial spectacle, and the whole of Udaïpur is enveloped in an unreal light, as if frozen in a dream.
The Jag Mandir, the Maharajas' haven of peace
It all began in the 17th century, under the reign of Maharana Karan Singh. The Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, a prince named Khurram, rebelled against his father, the emperor Jahangir. Hunted and weakened, he found refuge in Udaipur. Rather than give in to fear or political opportunism, the Maharana offered him hospitality on a peaceful island in the lake. To welcome him with dignity, he had a graceful pavilion built, with finely sculpted columns, which was later named Gul Mahal. A few decades later, his successor, Maharana Jagat Singh I, completed the ensemble by building the palace we see today. He gave it its name: Jag Mandir, "the temple of the world".
The elegant building, with its openwork domes and balconies, has been oriented so that the breeze from the lake refreshes the courtyards and gardens, enveloping them in the subtle scent of lotuses. Precious miniatures, detailed using a single squirrel's hair, adorn the flats and reflect the refinement of the Mewar school of painting. The royal family used the palace as a summer retreat and for parties. The palace has twice been used as a refuge for asylum seekers. The picturesque Jag Mandir Island Palace today welcomes business travellers, tourists and celebrities from all over the world for major ceremonies and events.
Text and Photos : Brigitte Postel
Getting there
Shanti Travel offers a trip to Rajasthan in a small group, including a visit to Udaïpur. 13 days from €1,600, excluding international flights and airport taxes.
https://www.shantitravel.com/fr/voyage-inde/immersion-au-rajasthan-en-petit-groupe
