In Saintes, every stone is an archive, every bend in the road a footnote to the national story. Antiquity is the foundation. A walk through Mendiolanum Santorium the city of Santons.
At first glance, you might think that Saintes is just another provincial town. It has neither the nautical power of La Rochelle, nor the influence of a major metropolis. And yet the city is a palimpsest, one of those places where people have written, effaced and rewritten.
The Arch of Germanicus now stands like a relic on the banks of the Charente. It has nothing to do with the triumphal arches of Rome. It's a small two-bay arch, made of beautiful limestone, without excessive embellishments. A little lonely, a little out of place (it's no longer where it was built, dismantled stone by stone in 1843 to avoid demolition).
But make no mistake, this arch is a gift to Rome, a gesture of allegiance, as the inscription makes clear. The building was erected in 18 BC by a local notable Caius Julius Rufus to the glory of the emperor Tiberius, his son and the young Germanicus, the beloved prince adopted by Tiberius.
Saintes also had its thermal baths, its aqueduct, its temples and, of course, its amphitheatre, which gave it an air of little Rome. It also had an arena where 15,000 spectators could gather to cheer the games and the martyrs. Saint-Eutrope evangeliser and first bishop, was beheaded here. Built during the reign of Claudius, this monument is a tool of Romanisation. The circus and blood, beasts and gladiators, were part of imperial education. A way of saying to the Santons: "You're Romans too. This is your Coliseum!"
Obviously, on a local scale, the ambition is modest: the building, which backs onto a hill to save on masonry, has neither the scale nor the decoration of the great arenas. It is around 116 m long, enough to impress a town of a few thousand souls.
Between ancient remains and musical scenes
In this ancient setting, Saintes proves that it knows how to create a musical dialogue between the centuries. History doesn't sleep, it sings. Every summer, the Roman amphitheatre is transformed into an open-air stage. Where ancient clamour once resounded, there now rise notes of jazz, rock, classical music and world music. The site hosts concerts as part of festivals such as "Romanesque Nights". "Playing here is like playing in a dream. You feel the weight of history but also the energy of the link. Each note takes flight in different ways", confides a cellist.
The second stage of our journey through time takes us to the calm of the Basilica of Saint-Eutrope, listed by UNESCO as part of the Pilgrim's Way to Santiago de Compostela. A masterpiece of Saintonge Romanesque art, the site boasts numerous Romanesque capitals and a fine series of stained glass windows. Put on a gown and enter the crypt, one of the largest and most beautiful in France. At the heart of the crypt lies the cenotaph of Eutrope, the founder and evangeliser of the diocese. You can see shadows gliding by, which could well be the ghosts of the monks of old.
The music takes us straight to the Abbaye aux Dames. Plundered during the Wars of Religion, it has become a mecca for classical music, with music replacing prayer. Mozart is now heard here instead of Vespers. Every summer, the Abbey becomes a privileged stage for the prestigious Festival de Saintes, a rendezvous for lovers of classical and baroque music. In its vast halls and abbey church, music reigns supreme.
Under the impetus of the town of Saintes, the Abbaye aux Dames is more than just a historic monument: it is a crossroads for the arts, a place where past and present interact, where ancient stone vibrates to the rhythm of today's passions.
Accommodation
After this ride through time, let's make a stop in the 17th century: it takes us to the Hôtel Les Messageries, a former post and stagecoach relay. Built of white Charentes stone, it is located in the heart of the historic district of Saintes. After a good night's sleep in one of the 33 quiet, comfortable rooms, and to get the day off to a good start, we enjoy the breakfast concocted with local produce. Plus: private parking.
https://hotel-des-messageries.com
Saintes and Saintonge Tourist Office
Tel. 05 46 74 23 82
Text : Michèle Lasseur
Photos : Claudine Lasseur and DR
